A friend first passed word to me about a humble family run Chinese restaurant near Coquitlam center, and explained that the chef use to be an executive chef at a reputed hotel in Hong Kong. I was intrigued, and with the power of the interconnected foodie universe that is the internet at my fingertips, I decided to dig further. My efforts only managed to confuse the issue though, as this chef’s reputation is a tale that grows taller with each telling. There are existing stories that he was either once a head chef at the Hyatt, a chef at the governor house for two of the Governors of Hong Kong, cooking for the royal Hong Kong police headquarters, or the personal chef to the Governor of Macau. Clearly, I was not going to appreciate what this place can do by just reading about it. ;)
Everyone gets a clear view of the Chinese menu on the wall when they step through the door, but English menus are available. The chicken wings is well advertised below the whiteboard menu, which should give enough hint that this isn’t the usual lobster/crab/abalone type of Chinese seafood restaurant. The focus here is on a smaller set of simple recipes with time tested ingredient combinations and preparation methods.
The walls are lined with whimsical caricature drawings, some of them depicting the jolly chef chasing down your distraught dinner with a bottle of sauce in hand. (The Chinese characters are the name of the dishes.)
This is my third visit, and though having a party of 7 didn’t help us get seated, we did get to sample a good selection of dishes that showcased almost all of their food preparation styles. Every table is greeted with a complementary and appetizing meat and red bean soup after ordering.
First up is the honey garlic chicken wings. Crisp, unbattered battered skin, with juices still in the meat, and flavors marinaded in instead of being doused in sauce.
We ordered a few of the hot plates, which all seemed to have a bit of swiss sauce (they actually used to give away a bottle of the marinade with every order). The Japanese style beef was my favorite of the bunch.
Another really tasty dish, the beef in tomato sauce. We didn’t have it this time, but their black pepper beef is also well prepared, and the best version I’ve ever had.
The pungent smell of shrimp paste may put some people off this tofu and pork neck dish, but like salty fish fried rice, the flavors help round the dish out.
We had 8 dishes in total, and while the bill isn’t light, its the best dinner I’ve had in a while, and that’s the same feeling I get after every visit.
They’re Located one block east of Coquitlam Center. Do making reservations if you plan to drive down for a visit, as there’s always a wait, and cash only.
2755 Lougheed Highway
(604) 464-4325
(map)
February 9, 2009 at 11:56 am
Intriguing. We just got back from great eating around Macau and Hong Kong. I’d love to try this place out if some circumstance brings me to be near Coquitlam Centre (last time was over 5 years ago, so I wouldn’t hold my breath).
Did you ever talk to the chef and find out the fact behind the myth?
February 9, 2009 at 5:31 pm
That’s one of our favourite places to go! (although it’s a long way to drive from Dt and West Van for us).
Next time you have to order the fried fish in 5 spice (or was it just spice..). It’s delicious
February 10, 2009 at 8:14 pm
Those mystical tales that get twisted and turned over the years about a ‘famous chef’ are always amusing. Love the artwork, glad you captured it. The chicken looks pretty good, I am totally with you on the view they are best marinated in flavor rather than doused in an exterior sauce…
February 10, 2009 at 10:35 pm
I didn’t get a chance to talk to the chef, but I did manage to dig up an article that confirms a illustrious career of restaurant ownership and experience in catering for banquets of the government office in Hong Kong.
It was more fun to let the mystery stay a mystery. :)
Andrea, I saw many tables ordering that dish. Will be giving it a try.
February 25, 2009 at 5:39 pm
This place is seriously good.
Really enjoyed it and will be back for sure.
March 3, 2009 at 3:50 pm
I used to go to this place when I still lived in Coquitlam. One of the best there.
April 21, 2009 at 10:56 pm
I go to Coquitlam on a regular basis but have never visited this place! Roughly how much is one dish? Thanks. =)
April 22, 2009 at 9:34 am
Check out the pic of their menu. Average $15-ish per dish. Worth the money.
April 25, 2010 at 2:39 am
What about the pork leg? Hasn’t anyone tried it before? Some swear it’s the best.